It's almost 1 pm here in Bangkok. For the first time since I've been here, the air feels cool and fresh, although the weather sites would somehow disagree with me. One site says "82° F, feels like 88° F." Let me tell you, however, that there is a certain cool stillness to today that weather.com just can't express.
Today I attended Thai church to watch a concert put on by some of the kids I teach in the English Program at Ekamai Adventist School. They played ukuleles and sang songs about heroes from the Bible. It was really cool seeing the kids so excited about the songs and really getting into it. Then I went to potluck and met some Thai people to eat with. Potlucks in Thailand tend to be different from potlucks in the United States, mostly because the food here, ALL the food, is amazing. There is never the "Obligation Casserole," the fare you feel compelled to eat because of the individual who cooked it, and which is never judged fairly on its merits or digestibility. Instead, every bit of food here is restaurant-quality and delicious. I sat with two girls who instructed me on the proper assembly of one of the curry dishes; I figured if they are willing to tell me how to put my food together, I'm sure they will be interesting company.
I had planned yesterday morning to write about how familiar I had become with Bangkok. I wanted to talk about how I could hail a cab or tuk-tuk with ease, how I could avoid flooded parts in a street at a near-professional level. However, the world, as it is often wont to do, decided that Friday, September 9, 2011, was as good a day as any to mix up my belief in my self. Here's a short synopsis about how my day went:
11:00 am - decide to go to Khaosan Road in eastern Bangkok. It has been said that "all roads lead to Khaosan," and that may be true, but only if you travel in the correct direction on any given road . . .
Noon 10 - leave apartment and board tuk-tuk to Phra Kanong, the BTS stop nearest me and where I would board either the #2 or the #511 bus to Democracy Monument, the closest landmark stop by Khaosan.
Noon 30 - arrive at Phra Kanong, cross street to board bus.
Noon 40 - board bus #2. Smile in delight that, for some reason, no fare is charged to ride. At this point, I was unaware that I was going in exactly the wrong direction.
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Bus #2: View from a bus seat. |
1:30 pm - everyone else gets off bus, so I join them. Why not, right? I begin walking in a manner that could only be described as aimlessly. I ask a friendly group of motorcyclists for help and they instruct me to go to the bus. Thinking I have only missed my stop by one or two, I do as they say.
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Friendly motorcycle taxi drivers. |
1:40 pm - get on #511 bus headed in correct direction. Go two stops then get off.
2:10 pm - continue my aimless jaunt around the wrong side of Bangkok. End up at a security guard station where I am instructed to wait (in Thai) until a motorcycle taxi picks me up. I tell him Khaosan Rd, thinking it is a couple minutes away. He doesn't seem to understand my request, but begins driving anyway. Drives for twenty minutes, when I realize he's been talking on his cell phone for the past ten. Pulls over to side of the road and hands phone to me.
2:30 pm - begin a fruitless conversation with a woman on a cell phone who speaks very little English and seems to be surprisingly ignorant of Khaosan. I get slightly irritated as she keeps saying, "Again!" I hand phone back to driver, he hands phone back to me. Conversation continues. I hand phone back to driver, he hands phone back to me. Conversation continues. I hand phone back to driver. He hangs up, then says, "BTS." "Sure, whatever."
2:55 pm - driver drops me off at BTS station. I walk in, irritated that all this is happening. Literally the moment I glance at a map I realize that it has taken me over two and a half miles to get approximately an hour further away from my intended destination than the point from which I began. I hope silently that nobody can tell I am a moron from just looking at me and board a BTS train towards National Stadium.
3:30 pm - get out of BTS station at National Stadium and watch a marching band competition . . . Imagine the movie "Drumline" with just Asian people. So yeah, it was pretty amazing. I walk around looking for a taxi to take me to Khaosan, but nobody is willing to go on the meter. They all want a flat rate. For your information, if a taxi driver refuses to go on the meter, he is dishonest. So, they don't get my business. I settle on a motorcycle taxi that I barter down to a price that is less than half the rate of the other taxis.
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The view from a motorcycle taxi. |
4:00 pm - arrive at Khaosan. Relief pours through my body as I pay the driver and thank him for helping me out. I walk around for a while, then prepare to return home. On my way out of the street, a man in a turban approaches me, holds out his hand and says, "You are very lucky man." Well, that piques my interest, so I shake his hand but tell him I have to go. He begins asking me if he has done something to offend me, I say no but tell him I don't want to spend money. He offers a free test of his services, which apparently are in the realm of fortune telling, and says if I am impressed then I can pay him for more. I don't want to join him, especially down the alley into which he drags me, but I think to myself that perhaps by following him I can relieve some of the American-Arab tensions I apparently let arise when he thought I was angry with him. He does some bogus trick in which he writes, "7," "HGR" and "no" on a piece of paper. This kind of trick is easily manipulated and I am unimpressed. He wants me to pay for more, but I decline and wish him a wonderful rest of the day. I head to the street to find my bus home.
5:00 pm - not wanting to make the same mistake I made the first time, I ask multiple people for help. Most of them even tell me the same thing. Also, I pace fruitlessly up and down a street, thinking that by simply walking back and forth the solution to my uncertainty will become clear. It does not.
6:00 pm - board the #2 bus to . . . ? I hope silently that it is Phra Kanong, but I have not assurance that this is the case. My thoughts travel from the realm of "this is right," to "this is wrong," to "oh well, it will work out," to "I will probably never see my home again and might die on the streets tonight." After long periods of not seeing anything recognizable, I identify a BTS stop I know. I consider disembarking and getting on the BTS, but I am aware that I have not been charged a fare on this bus. At first, I consider that a bad thing, as the first bus I took that day was headed in the wrong direction and also charged no fare. Finally, I arrive at Phra Kanong.
7:30 pm - walk to a tuk-tuk to take me back to my street. It is very easy in Bangkok to get turned around and confused, but I am certain it is the correct one. The rain begins to fall lightly.
7:45 pm - it's the wrong one! I am confused but know I am heading in the wrong direction. I press the stop button to get off as the tuk-tuk turns down a road. As soon as I climb out of the tuk-tuk and pay, I realize . . .
7:46 pm - it was the right one! Nuts, now I have gotten off twenty blocks short of my apartment and I'm not about to pay for another tuk-tuk. Oh well, I can walk. It is just sprinkling rain, after all. A walk won't kill me.
7:47 pm - the heavens begin to throw down, monsoon-style. I walk for a few short blocks before I find shelter and pull out my rain jacket (which I have begun carrying with me; one of my better decisions). I tromp through huge raindrops and huger puddles past people huddled in doorways and under umbrellas.
8:15 pm - arrive at my apartment, thankful for a waterproof coat and food in my apartment.
Thus was my adventure in which I remembered that I don't know everything. It's good to be reminded of that every once in a while. As long as it's not too often . . .